Form Follows Function: Understanding the Why Behind the Structure – Part One

As breeders, exhibitors, and performance partners, we spend a lot of time looking at dogs. But how often do we pause to truly see them? Structure isn’t just about stacking a dog or memorizing a standard. It’s about understanding why our breeds are built the way they are. Form follows function—and if we want to breed dogs that move well, work soundly, and live long, healthy lives, we need to understand how form and function connect.

Stephanie Hedgepath’s “Form Follows Function” series in ShowSight Magazine is a masterclass in going beyond the surface. This first article sets the foundation, not by diving right into anatomy, but by reminding us of our responsibility: to preserve breed type and function. As she writes, “You cannot evaluate movement until you understand structure, and you cannot evaluate structure until you understand type.”

Type is more than just a silhouette—it’s the physical expression of a breed’s purpose. Whether retrieving, herding, guarding, or simply moving efficiently, every breed was designed with a job in mind. And when we breed, show, or judge dogs, we should be measuring their structure against that functional blueprint—not chasing trends or exaggerations.

Balance is a word that gets thrown around a lot, but here, it’s clearly defined. A balanced dog is one whose parts—front and rear angles, topline and underline, head and neck—work in harmony. Balance isn’t just aesthetic; it’s essential for endurance and efficiency. An unbalanced dog may still move, but not without wasting energy or straining joints.

As breeders of purpose-bred dogs, this is our charge: to understand our breed’s history, to protect its future, and to evaluate structure not just for the ring, but for the real-life work our dogs were built to do.

This first article lays the philosophical groundwork for the deep-dive that follows. It’s a call to curiosity, humility, and intention. Our dogs deserve nothing less.

Form Follows Function – Part Two: The Canine Skeleton – the Blueprint Beneath the Breed

If form follows function, then the skeleton is the blueprint. In Part Two, Hedgepath takes us beneath the coat and into the foundational framework of every breed: bone. Every dog, regardless of type or size, has the same basic skeletal structure. But it’s the length of the bones and the angles of the joints that create breed-specific silhouettes—and functional differences.

Understanding the canine skeleton is essential to interpreting structure. Long bones (like the humerus and femur) give leverage for movement. Short bones (like those in the carpus and tarsus) absorb shock and provide stability. Flat bones protect vital organs. And all bones serve as attachment points for the muscles and ligaments that move our dogs forward.

Hedgepath explains joint types with clarity: ball-and-socket joints (shoulder and hip) allow rotation, hinge joints (elbow and stifle) provide flexion and extension, and gliding joints (carpus, tarsus) offer limited, shock-absorbing motion. When we understand how these joints function, we can better recognize why certain angulations—too steep, too flat, too long, too short—lead to inefficiencies or even injury.

One of the most important takeaways is the front assembly’s role in weight distribution. Dogs carry about 60% of their body weight on their front end. That means the front structure—scapula, humerus, elbow, pasterns, and feet—must be both shock-absorbing and structurally sound. The angles and proportions here determine reach, impact absorption, and long-term soundness.

This part of the series is a reminder that good structure isn’t cosmetic. It’s the product of precise skeletal architecture. As breeders, when we assess a young puppy or a promising show dog, we should be asking: does this dog have the bone and balance to do the job it was bred for?

Because under every coat—whether curly, wiry, smooth, or double—is a blueprint. The job of a preservation breeder is to understand it, respect it, and protect it.

Form Follows Function – Part Three: Hindquarters, Head, Neck & Spine

In Part Three, Hedgepath shifts focus to the rear—the engine of propulsion—and the spinal column that connects it all. This section reminds us that movement starts in the rear, is stabilized by the spine, and is directed by the head and neck. When these pieces are structurally sound and properly balanced, efficient, effortless movement is possible.

The pelvis is angled to allow powerful thrust from the rear. Ideally, the femur should be of equal length to the pelvis and meet at a 90-degree angle at the hip joint. The lower thigh (tibia and fibula) should equal or exceed the length of the upper thigh to maintain strength and flexibility through the hock. These proportions directly affect drive and follow-through.

Moving forward, the spine is more than a bridge between front and rear. The cervical vertebrae in the neck allow head carriage, flexibility, and shock absorption. The thoracic vertebrae support rib structure and provide the strength behind a well-developed topline. The lumbar and sacral vertebrae, especially where the pelvis anchors to the sacrum, are critical for propulsion. Each section plays a distinct role and should be assessed both visually and through touch.

The head—its shape, proportions, and function—matters just as much. Skull type (mesocephalic, dolichocephalic, or brachycephalic) isn’t just a visual cue. It reflects the breed’s original function, bite mechanics, and sensory needs. Jaw strength, dentition, and proportion between skull and muzzle can indicate a dog’s ability to perform its intended work.

Together, the hindquarters, spine, neck, and head create a functional continuum. They form the support system and steering mechanism for purposeful movement. When breeders understand how these systems interrelate, we’re better equipped to evaluate puppies, assess breeding stock, and advocate for soundness across the lifespan.

The beauty of structure isn’t just in stillness—it’s in the way it powers motion. And that starts from the rear and runs right through to the nose.

Form Follows Function – Part Four: Visual Assessment Techniques

Part Four brings us to the eyes and hands of the breeder and judge: visual assessment. Before we ever touch a dog, we use our trained eyes to evaluate balance, proportion, angulation, and overall harmony. This article breaks down how to look beyond the surface and assess structure in motion and at rest.

Stephanie Hedgepath reminds us that visual assessment is not guesswork; it’s a skill built on understanding anatomy and breed type. She walks us through key visual checkpoints: head set, neck length and carriage, shoulder slope, front and rear angulation, topline, croup, tail set, and foot placement. Each area tells a story about how the dog moves and functions.

Balance is front and center again—whether the dog’s front matches its rear in angulation and length. Is the topline level or does it dip? Does the dog move smoothly with a natural stride, or is there stiffness or awkwardness? The article also encourages breeders to watch dogs from multiple angles, noting how structure translates into real-world movement.

This step is critical before the hands-on exam. Visual cues guide where to focus palpation and what questions to ask about a dog’s soundness and potential. For preservation breeders like us, learning to read these visual signs early means better selection and stronger breeding decisions.

In your program, combine these visual checkpoints with your knowledge of breed history and function. This way, you’re not just seeing a pretty dog—you’re seeing a working athlete built for purpose.

Form Follows Function – Part Five: Hands-On Exam of the Front Assembly

Building on visual assessment, Part Five dives into the tactile side of structure evaluation—palpating the front assembly. The front end carries about 60% of a dog’s weight, so understanding what you feel under the coat is crucial for assessing soundness and function.

Stephanie Hedgepath guides us through feeling the scapula’s position and angle, the length and layback of the shoulder blade, and the upper arm’s length and attachment. These elements shape reach and shock absorption. Palpating the elbow joint reveals flexion and extension, as well as any signs of stress or arthritis.

You’ll learn to trace the foreleg down to the pasterns and feet, noting angulation and stability. The article stresses the importance of feeling for muscle tone, ligament integrity, and joint alignment to detect faults that may not be obvious visually.

For breeders focused on preservation, this hands-on work complements what you see in the stack and in movement. It helps you confirm or question your visual impressions and ensures you’re selecting dogs with sound, functional front ends.

Mastering front assembly palpation builds a foundation for the rear and full-body exams coming up next. With this skill, you’re better equipped to protect and promote the structure that supports healthy, balanced movement.

Form Follows Function – Part Six: Hands-On Exam of Chest, Topline, and Hindquarters

In this final hands-on chapter, Stephanie Hedgepath walks us through palpating the chest, topline, and rear assembly—key areas that influence strength, balance, and propulsion.

Start by feeling the rib spring, checking the curve and depth of the ribs from both sides. An ideal ribcage supports efficient breathing and endurance without being slab-sided or barrel-shaped. Next, move your hands along the spine from the withers through the thoracic and lumbar vertebrae, assessing muscle development and spinal alignment. A strong, smooth topline is essential for a sound, athletic dog.

Then focus on the croup and tailset by palpating the sacrum and pelvis. The pelvis should be well-angled to allow powerful rear drive. Feel the loin length and the ischial tuberosities (“pin bones”) to evaluate rear balance and strength. This tactile examination complements the visual assessment of rear angulation and tail carriage.

Together, these structures form the foundation for propulsion and balance in movement. As a preservation breeder, mastering this palpation helps you select dogs with the physical tools needed for longevity and function.

With Parts Five and Six complete, you’ve gained a full toolkit for evaluating structure by both sight and touch. The next step is applying this knowledge to movement and gait analysis—seeing form truly follow function in action.

Form Follows Function – Toes Up: The Foundation Beneath Every Step

Often overlooked, a dog’s feet and toes are the literal foundation of movement. Healthy, well-structured toes provide support, traction, and shock absorption—key factors in soundness and athleticism.

Dogs typically walk on four main toes per foot, each with three small bones that allow flexibility and grip. The dewclaws—vestigial fifth toes—vary by breed and function. Front dewclaws are often firmly attached to bone and help with stability; rear dewclaws may be looser and sometimes removed if they pose a risk.

Pads cushion each toe and the foot’s underside, made of dense connective tissue and fat covered by thick, protective skin. These pads absorb impact and help dogs adapt to varying terrain, whether slick floors or rugged trails.

Toenails also play a role in traction and balance. Keeping nails trimmed and healthy helps maintain proper foot positioning and prevents discomfort or gait alteration.

When evaluating structure, don’t forget to examine toes and feet by sight and touch. Look for symmetry, proper alignment, healthy pads, and secure dewclaws. Well-formed feet contribute to efficient, effortless movement—just as form should always follow function.

Form Follows Function: Questions Asked on Social Media

One of the most common messages I receive goes something like this:

“We’re looking for a puppy—do you have any available?”

or

“We’d love a cream male—do you have one right now?”

I completely understand the excitement of wanting to welcome a new puppy into your life. But here’s the truth: if you’re working with an ethical, preservation breeder, the process is going to look—and feel—very different from shopping for a pet online.

We Don’t Breed on Demand

At Standard Poodles of Forest Lakes, our dogs are our family. They live in our home, not in kennels. Every litter we plan is the result of years of research, health testing, evaluation, and observation—not to mention deep consideration of temperament, structure, and goals for the breed. Our litters are not frequent, and they are never rushed.

And just because a female reaches breeding age doesn’t mean we breed her right away. We wait until she is fully mature—physically and mentally—so that she can confidently raise and care for her puppies. That foundation gives each pup the best possible start in life.

It’s About the Right Match—Not Just Availability

When you bring home a puppy from us, you’re not just “buying a dog.” You’re becoming part of our extended family. And just like with any meaningful relationship, that takes time and mutual understanding. We’re committed to placing our puppies in homes where they’ll be loved and supported for a lifetime. That means getting to know you—your lifestyle, your goals, your expectations—and selecting the puppy who fits best.

We don’t let families pick based on color, size, or who was first in line. We match puppies based on personality, potential, and fit. We’ve spent every moment with these puppies from birth—we know them better than anyone.

Why Backyard Breeders Thrive (and Why You Shouldn’t Buy From Them)

Backyard breeders—and even some volume-focused kennels—thrive on impulse buyers: those looking for a specific color, those unwilling to wait, or those who may have already been told they’re not an ideal candidate for the breed. They breed for demand, not for the betterment of the breed. The result? Puppies that may lack stable temperaments, sound structure, and long-term health support.

You Have Two Choices: Ethical Breeder or Adoption

Let’s be honest: if you want a well-bred, purebred dog, there are only two responsible choices—work with a reputable, ethical breeder, or adopt. That’s it. And if you’re choosing to work with a preservation breeder, it’s not about filling an order—it’s about trusting the process.

Choose the Breeder, Not Just the Puppy

Every ethical breeder has different priorities—conformation, health, service potential, therapy aptitude, performance, or companionship. That’s why it’s so important to choose a breeder whose values align with yours. Before asking, “Do you have puppies available?” take the time to form a connection. Learn about the program. Share your hopes and plans for life with your future dog. Be willing to wait. Sometimes that wait is months—or longer—but it’s always worth it.

And in the end? You don’t “pick” your puppy. The breeder helps you meet the right one. The one who fits not just your wishlist, but your world.

Looking to start that journey with us?

We’d love to get to know you. Learn more about our program, our values, and our process here.

Dog Show Etiquette Cheat Sheet

Ring & Prep Area Etiquette

Be Ready & On Time – Arrive early and be at ringside before your class.

Keep It Clean – Pick up after your dog and yourself. Crates, grooming areas, and aisles should be tidy.

Respect the Stack – Don’t interrupt dogs being stacked or in training. Wait your turn.

Stay Alert – Know your armband number, class order, and listen for calls. Pay attention to the ring steward and/or judge’s instructions.

Respecting Handlers & Dogs

Ask Before Touching – Always ask before petting someone’s dog or entering grooming space.

Keep Distance – Don’t crowd other dogs in the ring or ring entrance. Not all dogs are social.

Celebrate Quietly – Be happy, but don’t gloat. Show grace in both winning and losing.

What Not to Do

Don’t coach from the sidelines during judging.

Don’t gossip, compare, or criticize others—especially juniors.

Don’t distract dogs in the ring (no squeaking toys or sudden movements).

Don’t correct or scold others’ dogs or children—bring concerns to a mentor or show official.

Social Etiquette

Use Kind Words – Compliment dogs and handlers sincerely.

Support, Don’t Undermine – Encourage, don’t compare.

🚶‍♀️‍➡️Avoid Drama – If there’s conflict, talk privately or walk away.

Don’t engage publicly.

Best Practices for a Great Experience

Thank judges, ring stewards, and club volunteers.

Offer to help juniors or new folks if you see them struggling.

Bring extras—water, slip leads, poop bags, snacks—and share if needed.

Focus on your dog and your growth. Every show is a learning opportunity.

How Victim Mentality Feeds Cancel Culture in the Dog World

I’m incredibly proud to share that the United Poodle Association Judges’ Handbook is now complete, live on our website, and ready for distribution!

This project has been a true labor of love. I spent many days developing the outline, writing and refining the content, and selecting images to clearly illustrate key points. The handbook was then reviewed by our committee, who provided valuable feedback to help shape the final version. While it was a collaborative effort, I was honored to lead the work, and I’m proud of the clarity, accuracy, and heart this guide offers.

The handbook is designed to support UKC judges in recognizing correct Poodle structure, sound movement, and important breed-specific traits. It provides clear guidance on grooming expectations, acceptable and unacceptable colors, and disqualifications — all with the goal of increasing consistency and confidence in judging this complex and elegant breed.

Printed copies will be handed out to judges at UKC Premier Nationals next week, and we’re also making it easy for club members and fellow Poodle fanciers to share this resource. At the Poodle Specialty on Wednesday, you can pick up a card with a QR code linking directly to the online version of the handbook — a great tool to pass along to judges, exhibitors, and enthusiasts.

Importantly, the online version is intended to be a living document. As the UKC breed standard evolves and new educational information becomes available, the handbook will be updated to reflect the most current, accurate guidance. This allows us to continually improve the resource and ensure it stays relevant for years to come.

You can view or download the Judges’ Handbook now at:

👉 https://unitedpoodleassociation.org/judges-education

Thank you to everyone who supported this project — your encouragement, input, photos and shared passion for Poodles made it all possible. I look forward to seeing how this handbook helps deepen understanding of the breed we love so much.

https://unitedpoodleassociation.org/judges-educatio

— Michele Harvey

Too many breeders today are falling back on the same tired excuses for why their dogs don’t have conformation championships (AKC) or Grand Championships (UKC):

“I’m not breeding for show dogs — I provide pets.”

“I’m breeding for performance, not conformation.”

“You can’t win in AKC unless you hire a professional handler.”

Let’s be clear: these are excuses, not reasons. And every time we allow them to justify skipping the ring, we lower the standard for what responsible breeding should be.

You don’t have to breed Champion to Champion or Grand Champion every time — but at minimum, one dog in the pairing should be a finished conformation Champion (AKC) or Grand Champion (UKC). The untitled dog should still come from a pedigree with recent champions close up, not just buried deep in the background. This is how we maintain — and improve — type, structure, and breed integrity.

Saying you’re “not breeding for show” doesn’t give you a free pass. Conformation titles are not about glamour. They are about verifying, through third-party, breed-knowledgeable judges, that your dog physically meets the standard. That the dog has the structure to perform its function. Form and function go hand in hand. A dog with poor structure is far more prone to injury — whether it’s in a sport ring or simply living its life.

Some will say, “But I do UKC, not AKC.” It’s important to understand the difference.

AKC conformation is widely recognized around the world as a gold standard for evaluating breeding stock.

UKC, while valuable and historically more focused on a breed’s original working purpose, does not carry the same global weight in conformation evaluation. That doesn’t make UKC irrelevant — but it does mean breeders who are serious about long-term preservation should take a hard look at what titles they’re chasing and why.

If you are breeding dogs, the goal should be improvement with every generation. That means measuring up — not making excuses.

Excuses don’t strengthen a breeding program. Accountability, evaluation, and commitment do. The breed deserves nothing less.

At the biggest poodle event of the year, having our poodle recognized and pointed at by none other than Michael Gadsby of Afterglow was an unforgettable honor. As one of the most respected figures in the breed—renowned worldwide for producing Crufts winners and dogs of extraordinary quality—Mr. Gadsby’s eye for excellence is second to none.

His recognition wasn’t just a placement—it was a powerful affirmation of the vision, dedication, and heart behind our breeding program. To have one of the greats acknowledge our work was a reminder that we’re on the right path: preserving and promoting the Standard Poodle with purpose, passion, and integrity.

Good sportsmanship is the heart of ethical participation in any dog sport, from conformation to agility, obedience, and beyond. It’s not just about how you act when you win but also how you conduct yourself when you lose. True sportsmanship reflects integrity, respect, kindness, and an unwavering commitment to the dogs and the fancy itself.

Key Qualities of Good Sportsmanship:

• Respect: Genuinely congratulating winners, even when you’re disappointed. Respecting judges, fellow exhibitors, and the show committee.
• Grace: Handling losses with dignity. You and your dog are still a team, win or lose.
• Supportive Attitude: Encouraging new exhibitors and mentoring others, offering kind words, and helping those who need guidance—just as others once helped you.
• Fair Play: Competing honestly. Following rules. Ensuring your dogs are conditioned, groomed, and presented ethically.
• Dog-Centric Focus: Prioritizing the well-being of your dogs over ribbons or titles. Their welfare and happiness always come first.

What Best Represents Clubs Like UPA and PCA

The United Poodle Association (UPA) and Poodle Club of America (PCA) stand for:

• Preservation of the Breed: Promoting health, structure, temperament, and purpose-driven breeding.
• Education & Mentorship: Providing resources, mentorship, and education for both new and experienced fanciers.
• Community: Fostering a supportive network of breeders, owners, handlers, and judges who uplift each other.
• Ethical Standards: Holding breeders and exhibitors to high ethical standards that ensure the welfare of Poodles is paramount.
• Sportsmanship: Encouraging positive interactions, fair competition, and respectful behavior in and out of the ring.

When we represent these clubs, we carry the torch for generations of preservation breeders, celebrating a standard of excellence with humility, integrity, and grace.

Handling Poor Sportsmanship

As a Witness:

• Lead by Example: Model the behavior you want to see. Offer congratulations and support where it’s deserved, and treat everyone respectfully.
• Don’t Engage in Drama: Avoid gossip or escalating tensions. Step away if things get heated.
• Support Victims Quietly: If you witness someone being treated poorly, offer a kind word or check in privately. Your empathy matters.
• Report if Necessary: If the behavior violates club rules or show regulations (harassment, threats), document it and report it to the proper authorities—show officials, stewards, or club reps.

As a Victim:

• Stay Calm: Take a breath. Respond with grace, or don’t respond at all.
• Don’t Feed Negativity: Walking away speaks volumes. Let your dogs and your actions represent you.
• Lean on Your Tribe: Talk to friends or mentors who can offer perspective and support.
• Formal Complaints: If the offense crosses a line (harassment, unethical conduct), document the incident and take it through the proper channels—UKC, AKC, or club leadership.

As an Ethical Breeder and Handler:

• Model Integrity: Be the example. Kind words to winners, graciousness in defeat, support for juniors and new handlers.
• Mentor Others: Teach good sportsmanship to your puppy buyers, junior handlers, and clients. It starts with education and example.
• Address Issues Privately and Kindly: If someone in your circle exhibits poor sportsmanship, address it privately with empathy. Sometimes people act poorly out of frustration or ignorance rather than malice.
• Support Club Values: Encourage participation in UPA, PCA, or other clubs that foster education and community over competition alone.

Sportsmanship isn’t just about a ribbon—it’s about building a legacy of respect and kindness in our fancy. The best breeders and handlers inspire others to be better people, not just better competitors.